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 Give Me the Jang Why does so much “Korean” fine dining still feel so French?

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 was this my Ratatouille moment? I was chilly, wet, and late for supper.  

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 I herniated my back this week after returning from Seoul.  

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 Rains followed, reminding us that one meteorological disaster may cause infrastructure collapse.  

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 The subway was broken, so we got delayed in traffic.  

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 However, I arrived at Meju, Hooni Kim's cozy eight-seat chef's table in the back of Little Banchan Shop in Long Island City, just as the first course arrived,,,

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 pale, custardy tofu with gochugaru, chives, and poached mangadak (shimeji) mushrooms.  

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 The waiter then poured dwenjang-guk broth, a fermented soybean paste stew, which cleared my mind.  

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 “Happy Chuseok,” Kim remarked as I sipped the copper-toned broth, earthy and dank with a refreshing minerality and spice.  

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